I run freeborn cutters and they do a great job and I run all my rail stock face down. I used to do the copes first when I ran a router but now I don't need to. Personally I wouldn't do it any other way. I have never had a problem with tear out doing it this way and it only requires minor sanding of the profile, as it would doing it the other way. Then I unbolt the backer, flip it around and turn the hold downs around and cut the other end. I run the one side through with this backer profile. I built a custom sled that has 2 hold downs and a backer that is cut with the cope profile to accept the rail profile. I then cut them the desired length and run all the copes through. I always run the rails first because I usually am doing a run of 50 or 60+ doors and drawers and I can run the whole works thru the shaper in 8 or 10' lengths with the power feed. This ensures a square door, and again, no worries about tearout. We then assemble the door and take it over to the vertical panel saw and cut the sixteenth of an inch off all sides, cutting the end grain first. If you want the stiles, say, two and a half wide, and you make your stile piece five and a half inches, you rip them after you run them and this gives you no problem with tearout. When you do this you ensure that the parts are all exactly the same size and the machining is done the same. We cut our stile pairs and rail pairs as one piece, running both sides of the piece with the same profile. A good smooth sliding sled is a must also, especially for short pieces.Īt our shop we usually make everything an eighth inch larger than final size. If you are going to cope the ends last, you need larger diameter cutters to get a clean cut without blowout. I clamp short stick cuts in a sled, like clamping the cope cut. For short pieces I simply tape them end-to-end and run as a longer board.Ĭut, cope, and then stick. I would cut to length, cope the ends and then run the stick. If I do the cope second, the quality is too low for my standards. If you do it correctly when you cut the last cope the bead should be first into the cutter so you don't get any tear-out of the bead. Cut it to length and then cut the other cope. For those short pieces, leave the piece long enough for your machinery to handle it easily. In a different situation I would cut the ends first on a wide board and go from there. It works, but it is a little slower and the cut on the end cope is not as clean. This time, since I had so many running feet of parts, I decided to rip everything to width and shape the long grain first. I think contributor B’s way is probably the best as well. It's easier than trying to handle skinny parts and you can cut off tear out if needed, and then run the edges. I cut the ends first but leave the stock wide, then rip pieces off. On the short pieces, I make a fresh 3/8" thick zero-clearance fence on the shaper, and feed these very carefully with a push block, taking a few light passes to sneak up on the final profile. I cope the ends first, and then shape the long grain. If you cut the ends first, you don't need the backer because the chip out is cut off when you cut the edge, but if you need some short pieces, you are out of luck. If you cut the ends last, you have to use some type of blowout backer. Do you cut the edge profile of your material in bulk first, leaving the end coping for later? Or do you cut all your lengths first, cope the ends, and then cut the long edge profile? I've done it both ways, and I see pros and cons to both. I'm talking specifically to anyone who uses the regular old shapers or router tables and does most of it manually. Offered in RAUVISIO brilliant, RAUVISIO noir, RAUVISIO shade, RAUVISIO crystal, RAUVISIO terra and RAUVISIO ingrain Glass insert option (Available Spring 2023):Īdd a pre-installed ¼” thick tempered glass center in clear or frosted glass to the finished door.I'm in the middle of building 112 raised panel doors and I started thinking about what the correct sequence should be for shaping stiles and rails. custom widths for horizontal middle rail or vertical middle stiles (when choosing multiple panels). Offered in RAUVISIO brilliant, RAUVISIO noir, RAUVISIO shade, RAUVISIO terra and RAUVISIO ingrainĬustom option: The custom option allows you to choose the following: The maximum warrantied size is 30 in W x 65 in H (762 mm W x 1651 mm H), and any height over 48 in (1219.2 mm) requires a center rail. The 3” wide frame (stiles and rails) consists of ¾” thick material and the center panel consists of 5/16” thick material. Our shaker doors are constructed of five separate RAUVISIO panels assembled with REHAU LaserEdge on all four sides.
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